Chemical Peels

Lets Start with realist goals off chemical peels:

• they can help to even out skin tone
• correct mild sun damage 
• reduce mid scarring
• make wrinkles and fine lines less noticeable
• help with the removal of stubborn blackheads and excess oil
• temporarily help to tighten pores and decrease oil

Unrealistic Goals:

• will not get rid of keloidal type or deep acne scarring (try laser)
• will not reduce the appearance of blood vessels and broken capillaries 
• get rid of all your wrinkles =(
• sorry... its not a face lift either
• and it is impossible to change the diameter of your pore size... it only helps pores to appear tighter and less pronounced

These are some of the active ingredients used for mild to moderate strength chemical peels (they are used alone or in combination with one another)

• Glycolic Acid (an AHA or alpha hydroxy acid derived from plant sugars, this AHA has the smallest molecule and is one of the most popular for this reason) 
• Lactic Acid (AHA derived from sour milk)
• Malic (AHA derived from apples)
• Citric Acid (AHA derived from citrus fruits)
• Tartaric (AHA derived from grapes or wine sediment)
• Salicylic Acid (BHA or Beta Hydroxy acid)
• Jessner's Peel
( a combination of salicyclic acid, resorcinol and lactic acid mixed in ethanol)
• Resorcinol
• TCA (Trichloracetic Acid)
TCA is used in a variety of peeling regimens such as the Obagi Blue Peel.

I will go in to detail about each acid in later blogs, since there is so much info

*Aside from the active ingredients, many spa grade, organic and home peels use other ingredients such as antioxidants, and stimulants to enhance the peel!...  
Burke Williams SPA has a great 4 Layer Resurfacing Peel, which utilizes a variety of enzymes, a high % glycolic acid, and a AHA/BHA blueberry detox mask (very stimulating!!!) Its a must try

There are different levels of peeling, depending on the % of acid and the chemical agent being used. Most home peels have a very low % and are considered very superficial peels. Some Day Spas offer mild to border line medium superficial peels, where as you may find a deeper peel at a medical spas or doctors office. 

A good home peel to try 

• Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel 30

Microdermabrasion vs Peels

I just received a question from one of my readers regarding microdermabrasion & peels.  She wanted to know if they gave the same results and if not, which is better.

In my opinion, you can get better results from peels.  Microdermabrasion physically removes the dead layers of skin, while peels chemically dissolve the dead layers.  With microderm, there is always the chance of excoriating the skin, leaving unwanted scratch marks.  Peels can give you a deeper exfoliation and leave you with a gorgeous glow, depending on the peel.  There are many types of peels, each with their own unique results.  I will elaborate on peels in my next blog.  But for now, I would opt for a good peel over a microderm any day! =)

The Top Contenders

I have been researching Stem Cell Technology and have tried a few products, but it was impossible to find legit peer board reviews on them (those are the reviews that you want to look for). So, here are some of the top contenders, based on personal experience, research and technology... please let me know if there are any that you (my readers) have tried and loved! There are a few that I have tried, such as Kate Somerville's Cyto Cell that did not make the top contenders. For the price, the ingredient list was not impressive. 

Created by Beverly Hills Cosmetic Surgeon Dr. Nathan Newman, Luminesce contains over 200 growths factors. Among them the growth factors, cytokines and interleukins (great stuff!) . They are known to destroy bad cells and replace them with healthy cells. These growths factors are created with Adult Stems cells. This is the first patent pending adult stem cell serum on the market according to Dr. Newman.  Price range: $120-140

ReVive Peau Magnifique runs $1500 for a few viles. It contains something called telomerase which activates dormant adult stem cells and is said to repair DNA fragmentation...Users of this product rave about its anti-aging results. At $1500 i'm gonna have to do a lot more research. 

GM Collins uses Plant Stem Cells to increase cell longevity and Orsirtine™ to promote cell survival in it's newest PHYTO STEM CELL + serum. These anti-aging products are designed to promote the cellular vitality of the skin and help delay the visible signs of aging. So far I'm liking it, but I still have 2 weeks to go according to their study...where after 28 days, you will see up to 92% wrinkle reduction and 63% increase in firmness. Price ranges from: $85-100

If you are looking for something in the $25-30 price range, this product is for you! Its next on my to buy list. This product claims to use the rare swiss apple in its Plant Stem Cell Technology. Their Cellular Activator Face Serum awakens dormant skin cells, making them behave like young skin cells. 


Their unique PhytoPlex™ plant extracts help visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and bring out a more youthful appearance. For $25... its worth a try=)XOXO

STEM CELLS??

After an amazing vacation, I am geared up and ready to talk SKIN. Stem Cells???

The “fountain of youth” is something that people will be researching until it is found. Some think that stem cell technology is the answer. There are two types of research being done… embryonic and adult. The adult stem cell research is the preferred, since they use stem cells from an adult donor, rather than an unborn fetus.

First thing you must understand is that not all stem cell technology assisted products actually use true stem cells within the product itself.  They use indicators that emanate from the stem cell in attempt to “trick” the skin into restoring its youthful appearance and performance.  The clinical research that has been done on this specific procedure has been proven to intensify the moisture in the skin and erase wrinkles, fine lines and other aging indications. The best explanation given by the clinical scientists is that it is equal to turning a raisin back in to a grape! WOW

With that said… not all stem cell products are created equally! Skin care manufacturers use stem cell sources from human donors, plants, fruit, marine life… and not all prove the same results.

Stay tuned=) In my next blog I will spill on the best stem cell sources and product lines that actually work! XOXO

Quick Tip;)

To help diminish the appearance of yucky cellulite... Srub your booty vigorously with a homemade coffee grind/ honey mixture daily while in the hot shower! The caffeine helps to stimulate oxygen flow, and the honey will help to hydrate and make your backside feel smooth and tight! XOXO

A few more FREE skin tips for amazing summer skin!

1. Drink lots of Water; The ideal ratio is 1/2 your weight in oz. Your skin needs to be hydrated from the inside as well!  (ooh and don't forget about your omega 3s)

2. Keep pillow cases soft, clean and bacteria free; Your face is smashed up against it every night... think about it! (Ideally back sleeping is the best if you can train yourself to do it, it keeps the thin skin around your eyes from creating unnecessary wrinkles)

3.Eat Raw when possible and keep sugars to a minimum for glowing healthy skin. I try to eat a raw breakfast and lunch (lots of fruits and veggies, grains...) , then enjoy a cooked dinner.

4. Exercise; both your body and your face. Keeping your body moving improves circulation, and exercising your face muscles will help keep your face muscles toned=) Check on line for a few fun facial exercises!

5. Switch from Coffee to Green Tea;  load up on the antioxidants this summer ( Bonus; green tea is one of the #1 fat burning ingredients as well)

6. Keep a hydrating toner in your bag this summer and spritz it on throughout the day to keep skin hydrated and fresh! Think of it as a fresh drink of water for your skin(thanks Michelle, I stold that line from you)
I like Burke Williams H2V Prepare Toner, its affordable and packed with moisture retaining ingredients and antioxidants.

7. SPF- need I say more; read my previous blogs on sun protection for more 411

8. Wide brim hats and Big Sexy Sunglasses are so in! and will help protect your skin from aging=)

9. Keep up with your skin routine-cleansing, exfoliating, treating, hydrating and protection

10. SMile and have FUN!

XOXO

The Art of Transformation

As much as I support natural skincare supplements and products, I also understand the growing popularity and the amazing results that cutting edge technology can provide. With new injectables and procedures on the market every year, my clients are often confused on what does what... and which one is better. Here is a little rundown...

There are two Muscle Relaxer/Wrinkle Smoothers that dominate the market right now;
Botox & Dysport (the newer and and usually cheaper alternative). These are usually injected between frown lines or on the forehead and  last between 3-6 months (sometimes longer depending on homecare). For the money I have heard that dysport gets the job done and gives great results. I would love to hear your opinions, as I have not tried either.

Next we have the Wrinkle Fillers;
The 3 common fillers are usually a Hyaluronic acid, Collagen , or a synthetic Filler.

The Hyaluronic Fillers that you might have heard of are Restylane, Perlane and Juvaderm. These Typically last up to 6 months and help to plump up and smooth out folds, wrinkles or scars. Swelling and bruising are not uncommon so avoid any blood thinners such as aspirin, Ginko, Vit E...2 weeks prior to injection.

The Collagen Fillers are not as popular, as results last anywhere from 2 weeks to 6 months. However, these injections typically run about a $100 cheaper. It is suggested to ice area immediately after to prevent swelling, and also remember to gently massage filled areas for a few minutes several times a day for the 24 hours to prevent bumps.

Lastly I will talk about Synthetic Fillers, since they have been getting all the hype lately. The top 3 brands are Radiesse, Sculptra Aesthetic, and Artefill.  A Beverly Hills Doctor was referring to Sculpta and Artefill, as the biggest injectable breakthroughs since Botox. These bioactive fillers are not only said to help fill and smooth out wrinkles, folds and scars, but are promising to stimulate new collagen growth and restore volume for long periods of time. Radiesse should last a year a more, Sculptra may last up to 2, while Artefill is permanent.FYI...permanent fillers are extremely difficult to remove!


With that all said... be very picky with your Doctor selection, you are paying for their skill, artistry and expertise in the field. And again. LESS IS MORE! meaning you want natural results, you don't want to look altered, just great for your age!

Trusted Doctors to try>>> Hawaii Readers; Dr. Randy Wong of Honolulu Plastic Surgery's Center of Transforming Arts has an amazing outlook on Plastic Surgery... he integrates leading edge technology with a more holistic and traditional approach to offer amazing transformations! check out his website at RandyWongMD.com
For our LA readers; Kate Somerville's Melrose Clinic offers clients a variety of Doctor performed treatments, while keeping skin health the ideal goal! KateSomerville.com

Now thats aging beautifully! 

Enjoy and Remember... You didn't age overnight, why should you anti-age overnight? amazing, natural results takes time and commitment!! XOXO